New Zealand

We spent about 5 weeks here and although it was the most rain in the past 2 months in recent history for the country, we came out unscathed (albeit soggy) and experienced what felt like a very authentic Kiwi Road Trip.

We flew from Honolulu to Auckland, took a ferry to Waiheke for the day for vineyard and sheep viewing, and then flew to Invercargill on the South Island on a small 9-seat hopper to Stewart Island for one of the 10 Great Walks of New Zealand, the Rakiura Track. It was a 3-day, 25 mile loop and with our impeccable timing we ended up rucking the trail after 300 runners completed their Rakiura Challenge trail run, so we ended up with an impressive amount of mud to navigate. One of the main reasons to return to Stewart Island was the hope of a sighting of a kiwi bird in the wild. After a couple of late-night hunts, we were successful! The photo is not much to look at, but at least it is some sort of tangible proof of the hunt.

On the small island island hopper flight to Stewart Island. Em braved the copilot seat.

Pier at Port Williams, our first campsite on the Rakiura Great Walk

Views of beaches on Day 2 of Rakiura Track

Lucky sheep on Waiheke Island North of Auckland

Campsite at Port Williams on Rakiura Track

The ever-elusive kiwi (you can only search for them with red light)

After Stewart Island, we flew to Christchurch to pick up our campervan and started our counter-clockwise circumnavigation of the South Island to the Marlborough region and up to the Abel Tasman National Park where we walked the 45-mile Abel Tasman track. Our first night was a nice low for us as we shared out tent site with numerous ducks and other waterfowl who felt much more at home in our flooded campsite than we did. Luckily, we dried our gear by the fire and the next few days cleared up and we enjoyed pristine beaches, lush jungle, and colorful sunrises.

Our home for the past month from Big Little Campers

Sunrise at Mutton Cove on the Abel Tasman Great Walk

Em found a reprieve from the sand flies at this cold pool near Onetahuti Beach. Rory took a quick frigid shower.

There were a few low-tide only crossings on the Abel Tasman, here is Em walking through the low-tide zone near Awaroa Hut.

Tramping on the beach for our last day on the Abel Tasman

After the Abel Tasman Great Walk, we took some R&R at an Airbnb called Indokiwi on the Northwest Coast. We documented it for future cabin inspiration.

Our planned time in Franz Josef National Park was a bust unfortunately due to the rain and lightening storms so after a few days of cold and wet tuna sandwiches in the van we were happy to make it to Wanaka, which is known for its sunny and temperate weather. We wanted to spend a few night here because we enjoyed it so much from our previous trips. This is really the basecamp to a lot of the high country in the area, so we took a few nice day hikes.

Wanaka seemed like the right place to discover what kite skating is…

The famous Wanaka Tree, flooded from all the rain

Next was Arrowtown, which we fell in love with on our previous NZ trip and wanted to spend more time in. We hiked, went to the local town theater (with their iconic cinema dog) and felt at home with its small-town vibe.

Hiking near Arrowtown on the Sawpit Gully Trail

Then, on to Fjordlands! We had spent time in Milford Sound before and were awe-struck by the landscape so we planned to spend two nights here. But, there was a significant snowfall over the pass and they closed it for two nights for avalanche risk, so after one night and a boat cruise at Milford Sound, we took the opportunity to get across the pass during the day to make it to Lake Manapouri for our overnight Doubtful Sound Cruise. It was our splurge for the New Zealand leg, but very worth it to spend the night on a beautiful sail boat on a very desolate Fjord that is only accessible by boat. We took an icy jump off the boat (how could we not?)

The Fjordlands Navigator, our Doubtful Sound ship

Countless waterfalls on the Doubtful Sound

Iconic Mitre Peak at sunset in Milford Sound

A Kea parrot in Milford Sound. They love tearing away at the weather stripping on all the cars in the parking lot.

Stirling Falls on Milford Sound, 150 meters high

We both jumped into the Fjord, not what one would call “warm”

After Fjordlands, we spent some time in the Caitlins, which is mostly coastal pastoral sheep pastures. It is one of our favorite parts of the country, with far more sheep and people. We stayed at a really sweet cabin on the hillside above Dunedin with a wood-fired hot tub on a sheep farm.

From the Catlins, we travelled up the Coast to Dunedin, which the locals call “Bondi without the crowds” or, rather sadly, “Plan D.” Despite the self-deprecation, we do love this city.

Em in front of the Dunedin Train Station

Sadly, our time in NZ came to a close as we travelled up the East coast back to Christchurch for a van drop and our flight to Melbourne to start the Australia leg. We will miss the land of flightless birds and tasteless meals!